Title: December 30th - 09:32
Medium: Super-8 film
Aspect Ratio: 4:3
Resolution: 2880 x 2160
File Type: H.264 Codec / MP4.
Comments: Surfs Up in Bondi. When you are in the barrel of a wave it is pure bliss. The ultimate high in life. An impeding presence that carries you forward. Nature's energy harnessed by the board. Somewhere in between motion and stillness since the wave you the force pushing you. The balance between air and water, from riding on top of the board until you go below the water. A push and pull like the tides themselves. It intuition that teaches you when to start to swim to take upon the wave. Sitting in the water waiting for the right wave, the right moment to move. You can't catch all the waves, and the right ones will find you. Surfing is a game of patience, then thrill. That feeling when you catch a wave is the dopamine I wish to feel every day in my brain. Perhaps because it is the feeling of harmony with nature, with the universe and her invisible forces.
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