Not only was this a bumpy ride physically, but also one of my bumpiest mentally. If you study this image, sit with it, please understand that it is every bit of 30 feet tall, the lip itself 10 feet thick.
I sit looking at this image with humility, knowing the whole time I was out this day I felt at the edge of somewhere far past my comfort zone, but I still managed to work through fear and mental turbulence to bring you this view of one of the craziest waves on earth. Makes me feel a little bit proud. This is the edge you spoke of, the correct swells are few and far between and the study here must continue in silence. This place deserves complete respect and we haven't even scratched the surface either, that is the crazy part. Thank you for everything.
