In this moment, I was very much un aware of how much danger I was about to be in, due to the undercurrents, about to grab my legs and pull me onto the shelf you see flattening out in the foreground of the photograph. I did my best to compose and shoot whilst swimming as had as I cound backwards, ducking through after this shot, in an attempt to get to safety which was futile. I seemed to move as one with the ocean. The following wave I wore straight on the head standing in shin deep water
