Chasing the dragon is a term in our circles we refer to in regard to the relentless pursuit of getting to see a wave “as good as it gets” waves that we study and return to time after time hoping to see “the” moment.
This Huzzas Beachie location is one of the rarest wave locations we have here in the South west of WA. Set in a tiny amphitheater it requires a long hot summer with no swells or storms and constant southerly winds to shift sand up into the corner and create a bank for swells to first hither rock, refract and then connect with the next wave creating the most stunning ocean shapes in at its best, crystal clear blue water. It requires the correct combination of swell, swell period, swell direction, tide, wind direction and speed, and time in between sets alongside the presence of cloud cover to offer the chance for that moment to come through and look spectacular
This chasing the dragon pursuit applies to wave riding too, but because ive spent so much time at each location before I picked up a camera… i know what Ive already seen, those moments no one can ride, just the whole ocean coming together as two pieces of energy connect and morph, this wave is incredible and I have not yet documented correctly what i have seen with my own eyes.
its a hard swim, exhilarating but when you know this wave can disappear for years at a time, one big storm like what has just happened here and it disappears, we push ourselves to document its nuances. If you knew what weve seen swim through this lineup from up on the granite headland vantage point...
Thankyou for the support as always. The chase continues.
