I felt like one this morning. waking up after an uncomfortable sleepless night, the swell had dropped from the previous day, Wetsuit dripping wet, by the time we arrived down the coast, it was just cold, but this is when it is at its most beautiful. As the day woke up, the temperature didn't, but the wind vanished making the ocean surface glassy. When this wave cam through, resembling frozen water in front of my eyes, any thoughts of being cold disappeared.
