I never sleep very well on these trips. More often than not its only the morning with good winds, meaning early starts in the dark, Tossing and turning on a little mattress on the ground in the freezing cold with my mind running over all the things I need to do while the ocean thundered like this photo was only a few metres away, The mornings are often very rushed, you gott dial in and wake up, go through the process of wetsuit, camera and jetski set up, ready to launch in the darkness to race down the coastline to hopefully witness the brief moments of interesting light, found right on sunrise or sunset. This is one of the longest open ocean journeys Ive done to reach a location. On this morning, the extra effort didn't amount to much. The weather changes to its own tune down here. What was predicted to be a clear morning, turned out to be a grey day. Regardless of the flat light available, this is one of the craziest waves on earth. this specific waves shape and form stood out against anything else. Just to witness this, photograph it, and bring it to the blockchain is monumental.
This photograph will live on timelessly. Yes its grey, but its still beautiful. A memory of a location visited by only a small few, along a coastline my father frequented in the early days of being a school principal, in super remote communities.
I wish I could convey properly what it takes to go out and do this. but these locations are very secret and need to be kept this way, enforced by angry locals. Its like a Mad Max movie.
