The first moments of the day. Most people are tucked up in bed while these troopers are making their way to beach side carparks in the dark, street lights still on, stretching wetsuits over head and getting ready to meet the waves.
Having surfed all my life I am no stranger to this ritual, only nowadays I am torn between the board and the camera, having to choose between catching the first waves or capturing them.
When the sky lights up like this and I am behind the lens I know I made the right call and each time it does, the shutter addiction overpowers the wave addiction a little more. I will never stop surfing, it is my saviour and my life source, I just might be later into the water than my usual routine as the days go on.
Artist: New Light Visuals
https://twitter.com/newlightvisuals
Title: Fire Starter
Edition: 1/1
hittman
