A few years back while the day was coming to an end, I managed to get this shot from a friend of mine.
I've had spent about 10 hours on the water already and until that wave, the conditions had been average. I was tired, hungry, thirsty and sunburnt. Until then, I didn't got any picture worthy of interest.
Then this wave came and my friend went for it. In a matter of seconds, I was in the right place at the right time to capture this moment.
What I love about this image is the contrast between the immense power of the ocean displayed here and the apparent calm of my friend.
Sure, this shows an insane skill level, but somehow it also feels like a life lesson we can all benefit from : learning to find inner peace while everything crashes around you. There are things you can't (and shouldn't) fight but learn to navigate through.
This image is part of a collection displayed in French Polynesia's main hospital. As people wake up after a surgery, these images are the first thing they see. It is meaningful as surfing and the ocean is such a huge part of the culture there.
