This image of Lucas was taken during the 2019 world surfing competition.
Lucas ""Chumbo" Chianca is a world-class big wave rider from Brazil I had the pleasure to meet during the event. Like many insanely talented people, he was kind and humble. We had a great time!
The waves weren't as big as a few days before, but it allowed me to get closer and capture many details! I love that expression of joy on his face, discovering the perfection of Tahitian waves, as if he couldn't believe this was real...
This image is part of a collection displayed in French Polynesia's main hospital. As people wake up after a surgery, these images are the first thing they see. It is meaningful as surfing and the ocean is such a huge part of the culture there.
