A day when waves were so massive a world-class competition had to be cancelled... and this is the biggest wave of the day.
To understand this image on a deeper level, you have to understand what it meant for my friend Ariihoe there. Or what surfing Teahupo'o on a big day means to any local Tahitian surfer.
In all aspects, your first really big wave there is a rite of passage. There definitely is a before and an after. This is exactly the experience Ariihoe lived on that day. One wave to prove himself worthy of the legendary surf spot.
This is one of the most dangerous reef break on the planet. The wave that fascinates as much as it is feared.
This image is part of a collection displayed in French Polynesia's main hospital. As people wake up after a surgery, these images are the first thing they see. It is meaningful as surfing and the ocean is such a huge part of the culture there.
