Riders On The Storm

Teahupo'o during a stormy day... Tikanui is a world-renowned big wave rider from Mo'orea, the island just in front of Tahiti. A huge swell was announced that day, so a few surfers were "towing in" (when you get launched on a wave by a jetski because waves are too big to paddle in). We had a few beautiful waves during the day, but nothing extraordinary... until this set. I took many images from this wave, but this frame where the foam ball is catching up on Tikanui is my favorite. Being so close to a massive breaking wave feels like thunder is crashing around you. The sound is overwhelming and you can feel the impact in your body. It feels very much alive... a living beast. It is a good reminder of the power of our oceans and a very humbling experience. This image is part of a collection displayed in French Polynesia's main hospital. As people wake up after a surgery, these images are the first thing they see. It is meaningful as surfing and the ocean is such a huge part of the culture there.