A psychotic demon spawn of a wave that is mesmerisingly terrifying and intricately beautiful at the same time. The first image of to be created in this body of work that began in 2022.
This wave isn't a complete secret in the surfing community here in the South West, but you need to go well out of your way to put yourself in front of it.
Its in a region that is a biodiversity hotspot, a combination of granite headlands and the surrounding coastal vegetation that nurtures all forms of wildlife.
The ocean is just as alive here. There are some big creatures around.
Tucked away in a small dark deep water bay and the ocean draining its self below sea level, before unloading ridiculous volumes of water onto a barnacle encrusted slab of granite...
To swim out here is very daunting, moreover Its not really the place to be swimming around as the sun is setting.
Its the kind of place when you get back to land safely you are thankful, but its also the kind of place where you will witness the most beautiful displays of water and light marrying together.
Facing fear is something we all do in life.
Fronting up to that fear lead me to experience this moment.
