Swell Arrival

Went from flat to giant in hours.

So out of shape and I caught myself in some viscous rip current. I was paddling for 40 min before finally touching earth (Sand)

This image sums up how big it was. With waves nearing 20ft it was not the most friendly session.

I had many sessions out here but this raw energy was like no other. After 7 long months the North Pacific swell season kicks off with a bang.

The perspective from this angle shows how small humans look compared to the actual wave. Mother nature in its purity!

JMV ART